Fun-filled fossicking through Fes

After a four-hour drive from Chefchaouen we arrived in Fes just in time for lunch yesterday. We first visited the Ville Nouvelle, the area constructed by the French colonists in the early twentieth century so as to leave the historical older sections of the city intact. This was a place of “mpdern” French architecture blending in with the old town walls and the large square where boys and young men played football. We continued through Fes el Jedid, or New Fes, so called because it was developed as recently as the thirteenth century, a maze of lanes and alleys, framed by shops and stalls selling everything from meat and fish to clothes, leather goods and mementos.

At the end of the day we arrived at our home for the next three nights, the Riad Jamai, a beautiful eighteenth century riad, built on three levels surrounding a large courtyard with swimming pool no less! Our room is enormous – about eight metres by three metres and almost six metres high – with a huge bathroom containing two tall vanities and the world’s largest bath. After a swim and shower (at the same time catching up on our washing), we stayed in for a meal of soup followed by a tajine of beef and eggplant.

After a good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast, we set off on foot this morning to explore Fes el Bali, the original Fes dating back to about the eighth century. Here the alleys are really narrow and we proceeded in single file, occasionally responding to the call of “balak, balak” and pressing our backs against the wall to allow small caravans of donkeys and mules to pass, some loaded high with skins or other produce. We visited a couple of madrasa, the Islamic schools that operated from about the thirteenth century until fairly recently, as well as the Kairouine mosque and university, which no longer functions as such but is credited with being one of the oldest universities in the world. We walked past several specialist trade areas – coppersmiths, leather merchants, weavers – and, after a delightful lunch of salad and lemon chicken, we ventured on to the tanneries, where animal hides are treated in vats of lime and animal urine before being washed and dried. We had been warned off the smell and were given sprigs of mint to hold close to our noses. Elizabeth took a more novel approach. It was a little disappointing not to see the array of colours portrayed in the tourist brochures (apparently these are often photoshopped), but it was nonetheless a fascinating experience.

Then up onto the mountain for panoramic view of the entire city and finally a visit to a pottery to watch the skilled craftsmen spinning the wheel or constructing intricate mosaics, or “zellij”, as it is called in Morocco. This process involves placing tiny coloured terracotta chips, coloured side down, on a horizontal board to make up the intricate pattern. A concrete mix is then spread over it all and, when turned over, the colourful, detailed, amazing mosaic is displayed. This requires concentration, memory and skill and is truly amazing to watch.

Back to our riad for a rest and a shower, then out tonight to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Tomorrow: A short drive to the town of Sefrou, which is well off the tourist trail, then back for an afternoon of leisure (which will probably mean exploring the souk on our own).