Settling in,sightseeing and snoozing in Seville

Last night we settled into our suite at the Zenit Sevilla Hotel and after a Spanish breakfast this morning – no mint tea - we set off for Seville Cathedral, the third largest in the world (but actually the biggest by volume). The cathedral is 126 metres long and 83 metres wide and stands on the site of the great twelfth century Almohad mosque (built between 1184 and 1198), with the mosque’s courtyard and 104 metre minaret, the Giralda, still standing. The immensely high roof is supported by enormous pillars and the chapels down two sides hold riches of sculpture and painting. The Capilla de SanAntonio, where baptisms are still held, houses Murillo’s 1666 canvas depicting the vision of St Anthony of Padua. Thieves cut out the kneeling saint in 1874 however a purchaser in New York recognised the portrait and returned it to the cathedral. Although repaired, the cut marks can still be seen.

The cathedral contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus, supported by statues of four kings. His remains were moved four times, at the request of his family following wars and power changes and it is said that he travelled more in death than in life. The main chapel, the Capilla Mayor, contains the largest altarpiece in the world, and the Sacrista Mayor contains the 475 kilogram sliver monstrance, the Custodia de Juan de Arte, which is given an outing once a year when it is carried through the streets during the Ascension procession.

After climbing the inside of the minaret and taking in the commanding views of Seville we decided to do what Spaniards do best, so we returned to our hotel and had a siesta. We ventured out for dinner this evening, joining the throngs of people walking along the river front of the Triana district, before settling for a dinner of calamari and paella at an open-air restaurant overlooking the river and the main bridge, the Puente de Triana. On the way home we came across a brass band following a procession where a large statue of the Madonna and child was carried on a float along a couple of narrow lanes. We have no idea what that was about but it was most impressive. Then home to bed.

Tomorrow: more of Seville.