Finding our way through a Rabat warren

We have spent the past two days in Rabat, Morocco’s capital. Yesterday we were driven from Casablanca to our hotel here and we immediately set forth to explore the Medina, with its rabbit warren of lanes and alleyways containing shops and stalls selling everything from fish, meat, fruit and vegetables to clothing, mementos and live turtles. We then strolled to the Kasbah, the 12th century fortress that was in turn built on the original fortress, providing commanding views of the ocean and the river. The dominant colour of the homes to 2,000 residents within the Kasbah is blue, to repel mosquitoes we are told. The residential area is also a rabbit warren of narrow lanes, just arms-length wide and meandering in all directions. We had to stop several people to ask directions in our school-boy French. We stopped for a refreshing drink at Cafe Maure which hangs over the cliff and then strolled through the Andalusian gardens that occupy the grounds of the former palace, built in the 17th century. We visited a pottery shop and bought a cute lemon juicer from a small charity shop that supports the peasant women of Northern Morocco. After a long walk back, again through the Medina, we dined, in our room, on bread, cheese and fruits - bought from the Medina of course. Hot, tired and blistered, we slept like logs.

Our first stop today was the local pharmacy as we both have a sinus infection and full blown cold symptoms, having gone through a box of tissues overnight. The obliging chemist dosed us up with pseudoephedrine from a large packet that cost $2.50! Then off to explore the Chellah, a set of Roman ruins dating from about 40A.D. It is also the site of an old Muslim burial ground. The old Roman town, which was quite significant in its day, was abandoned in 1154. The word chellah means “holy necropolis” and is so called because it houses the tomb of Abou el Hassan, also known as the Black Sultan. This was a worthwhile excursion, despite taking us well over an hour to walk there (largely due to John initially taking us the wrong way); it is a lovely, tranquil place with substantial old Roman ruins and shady gardens. We then walked on to the Royal Palace, which can only be viewed from the outside and then from quite a distance, and the Palace Gardens, which contained nothing whatsoever of note. Before entering it seems that we had to be screened by the police, who only asked us what country we were from but did not check our bags...very odd!

Then back to Centrale Ville (city centre) for a delicious lunch of four seasons pizza, Caesar salad and carrot juice, then to our hotel for a rest before we meet our tour group this evening.

Tomorrow: our tour of Morocco begins with a foray to nearby Salé and then to the town of Meknes overnight.